Sun-Kissed Splendor

Southern Spain, better known as Andalusia, is a region rich in history and culture; it is from Andalusia that many of the stereotypes we have of Spain (bullfighting and flamenco dancing, notably) were first born and continue to hold importance. And within Andalusia, sitting at the foot of the Sierra Nevada mountains, is a small but world-renowned city named Granada. Famed for its marvelous Islamic architecture, Granada was the last stronghold of the Spanish Moors, the Arabic people of North Africa that inhabited Spain in the Middle Ages. The legacy of the Moors lives on in the city, making Granada a symbolic gateway to the Arab world from Europe. It’s the perfect spot to introduce yourself to Spanish and old Arabic culture.

Official Language: Spanish

Best time to visit: Try your best to avoid peak summer months. Andalusia is infamously hot (upwards of 95 degrees) from mid June to September.

Budget: $$ (very reasonable)

English Level: Good. The Spanish have made great strides to improve their English, especially in a city like Granada which receives many tourists.

Granada Sights and Culture

View of Granada from Nasrid Palace of La Alhambra. — **View of Granada from Nasrid Palace of *La Alhambra*.**

The famous 19th century American writer Washington Irving once said that “Granada is like the beautiful, delicate land of our dreams; all those who see her, dream of visiting her again.” Irving was right on the dot, and he even said that he felt that his writings never did the city true justice. He was Ambassador to Spain from 1842 to 1846, but before holding the esteemed post, Irving became fascinated with Granada on his travels around the country in the 1830’s. When he visited the Alhambra palace, he fell so in love with it that he requested permission from the Spanish government to live there so he could write an entire book on the palace called Tales of the Alhambra. It’s a great read, with sketches, essays, and other stories that are perfect for anyone traveling to Granada who wants to learn more about the city and its history.

Link to Tales of the Alhambra online: https://archive.org/details/talesfromalhambr00irvi/page/n7

Introduction of Washington Irving’s Tales from the Alhambra. A great read for anyone interested in learning more about Granada before a planned trip. — **Introduction of Washington Irving’s *Tales from the Alhambra.* A great read for anyone interested in learning more about Granada before a planned trip.**

Culturally, Granada is like any other Spanish city, with a splash of Arabic influence. If you didn’t read my first article about Madrid, it’s important to keep in mind that Spain operates on a different time schedule than the rest of the world. Meals are later in the day than in the United States, with restaurants not serving dinner normally until 8pm at the earliest. This tradition makes more sense in the context of Granada’s climate, which is very hot and dry like that of a desert. Spaniards (and you, probably) have no desire to eat when its blisteringly hot, so they wait until later in the evening when the sun sets and the weather cools off significantly before dining.

La Alhambra

The crown jewel of Granada, and perhaps even of the entire south of Spain, is the Alhambra, a large palace and fortress built on a hill overlooking the city. In Arabic, Al Alhambra is written as الْحَمْرَاء‎, and translates to “The Red One.” The history of the Alhambra is rich and dynamic. Built originally as a fortress, it became the royal house of the Nasrid Kingdom, which ruled over the Spanish Moors (the Moors are the Spanish Arabic civilization that resided in Spain during the Middle Ages.) The Moorish emir Muhammed I built the original palace in 1333, and the fortifications and walls grew as Muslims fled the Christian conquest of the Iberian Peninsula. It was the last stronghold of the Moors before the city of Granada capitulated to the Catholic monarchs Ferdinand and Isabel in 1492. In fact, it was from the Alhambra that Christopher Columbus received his endorsement from the King and Queen to begin his expedition to the “New World.”

**Circular Patio of Charles V Palace located within the Alhambra.**

After a series of palatial constructions by future Spanish monarchs, most notably Holy Roman Emperor and Spanish King Charles V, the Alhambra was declared a national monument in 1870 and has enjoyed booming popularity among tourists, many of whom only visit Granada to see this palace (and for good reason.) The complexity and beauty of the grounds are reflected in some truly jaw dropping sights. Architecture and history buffs will be amazed by the variety of structures sitting on the grounds. Some of these include the Charles V Palace, the Generalife, the Nasrid Palaces, and the Alcazaba.

**Court of the Myrtles and Comares Tower. One of the iconic shots of the Nasrid Palaces.**

**The famous Lion statues in the Patio of the Lions. Water is a fundamental element of the Alhambra and can be heard and seen flowing throughout the grounds of the palace.**

As you venture through the Alhambra, you will notice that despite the age of the entire complex, it was designed by forward-thinking architects who considered the importance of molding the structures to the environment around them. The Generalife contains a variety of flowers, plants, and groves of trees that give the impression not of walking through a stuffy palace but instead of walking through a palace tucked within an oasis. If you stop and listen while you tour the Alhambra, you might notice the constant sound of flowing water around you; that is no accident. The Moors were very in tune with harmonious patterns, whether through the construction of aqueducts or the geometrical patterns that line the walls of the buildings (known as tracería.) The Arabs had enormous influence on modern day mathematics, so the complex patterns they used to design the Alhambra come as no surprise.

The Alhambra is the most popular tourist sight in all of Spain. This, in combination with efforts to preserve the integrity of the palace for future enjoyment, means that there are regulations in place which put a cap on the number of visitors which can enter the Alhambra every day. Therefore, it is essential you buy your tickets to the palace AT LEAST six weeks in advance. If you go to the website you will see that an entire month’s worth of visitations are gone. My friend Monette and I were disheartened to see that even six weeks in advance, the tickets from the website were already sold out for the days we would be visiting. However, there are many organized tours which buy up a block of tickets and charge a premium, so it is possible to find tickets even if they are sold out from the website. My advice is once you have your plans to visit Granada set in stone, the very first thing you should do is buy your tickets to the Alhambra.

**Generalife gardens. Trees, plants, and fountains are arranged geometrically throughout the palace to model the environment of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, which provide the backdrop for the palace.**

**You can really see how the Alhambra glows around sunset!**

Albayzín

El Albayzín, or Albaicín, (ٱلْبَيّازِينْ in Arabic) is the most famous neighborhood in Granada. Known primarily as being the old Arab quarter of the city, Albayzín is situated on a hill opposite the Alhambra, with winding, narrow streets that spread into a labyrinth of alleys ideal for exploring. You never know what surprising treasures you’ll run into as you’re walking through the Albayzín. Try not to get too lost!

Most of Albayzín’s charm comes from its whitewashed walls, houses, and buildings, which combined with the abundant sunshine of the city create a bright, shining effect that radiates wherever you go. The combination of Moorish architecture with that typical of Andalusia mixes together well. Perhaps my favorite aspect of Granada, and Andalusia in general, is how harmoniously the Christian and Muslim designs fit together seamlessly. You can tell it’s a unique setting, and one that warranted the residential area being declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984.

**Alleyway in Albayzín neighborhood, with traditional flowers boxes lining a white house.**

Royal Chapel of Granada

The Royal Chapel of Granada is an impressive monument to the Catholic Kings of Spain, Isabel and Ferdinand, and most famous for holding their remains in an elaborate crypt. Originally constructed between 1505 and 1517 as an addition to the Cathedral of Granada, the Royal Chapel has a distinct architectural style named after Queen Isabel. Gothic elements are mixed with an ornately decorated interior that reflects the attitude of Catholic dominance that would follow the unification of the Spanish kingdoms under one banner. One look at the main altarpiece and you know the Catholic Monarchs were not kidding around when they commissioned this lavish project. Even if you might be thinking “it’s just another cathedral, I can skip it.” Don’t. This one is worth a visit.

**View of altarpiece in the Royal Chapel.**

Restaurants in Granada

Restaurante El Trillo

Spending only one night in Granada, Monette and I decided we would treat ourselves to a nice dinner. If you are looking for excellent food and great views on the terrace, (call ahead to see if you can reserve a table up there) then this is the place for you. I was blown away by the quality of our meal and nothing beat watching the sunset over the Alhambra. They serve traditional Spanish and Mediterranean dishes.

Address: Callejón del Aljibe de Trillo, 3, 18010 Granada

Phone: +34 958 22 51 82

http://www.restaurante-eltrillo.com

Bodegas Castañeda

Anyone looking for the authentic Spanish tapas experience should look no further than Bodegas Castañeda. As you enter the restaurant, you’ll see a huge bar with lots of ham legs hanging from the ceilings. They have a great selection of tapas to choose from.

Address: Calle Almireceros, 1, 3, 18010 Granada

Phone: +34 958 21 54 64

https://m.facebook.com/BodegasCastaNeda/

Tetería Casablanca

After a long walk through the Albayzín, the traditional tea shops that hug the edge of the district are a great place to stop and rest. You can order cold tea drinks (and try hookah if you’re into that.) One of the best ones we tried was Tetería Casablanca, which had a great selection and the teas were delicious and refreshing.

Address: Calle Calderería Nueva, 23, 18010 Granada

Phone: +34 958 21 06 32

Granada, Spain