**Entering the Old Town of Bratislava.**

Rough Beauty

**Map of Slovakia, with Bratislava situated at the far southwestern edge of the country, on the border with Austria.**

Sitting smack in the middle of central Europe, Bratislava is one of Europe’s lesser-known, quieter capital cities (it straddles the border between Slovakia and Austria.) Only an hour’s train ride from Vienna, Bratislava has the misfortune of being overshadowed by its more famous Austrian neighbor. But this should not discourage you from taking a trip to the Slovakian capital. Boasting a small, charming old town with Baroque palaces, a reconstructed Renaissance castle, and fascinating Communist history and architecture, Bratislava deserves your attention, for it is in this city that you will find something you were not expecting.

Official Languages: Slovak.

Best time to visit: April to October.

Budget: $$ (Mid-range travelers can expect to spend about $100-125 dollars per day, including hotel/AirBNB, food, and sights.)

English Level: Good. Expect younger people to speak more English.

Bratislava Sights and Culture

**A cobblestone street near St. Martin’s Cathedral. If you’re looking for a quieter, edgier European destination, Bratislava is the place for you!**

Since Slovakia’s independence in 1993, Bratislava has quietly transformed itself into a cultural marvel worthy of your business. The city of Bratislava offers its visitors a vivid tapestry of European history that might go unnoticed at first. A medieval old town, Baroque palaces from the Hungarian and Habsburg monarchies, and stark architecture from the Communist era spread arcross Slovakia’s capital in mishmash fashion. It feels edgy, chic, and decidedly 21st century. I would say it’s one of the most curious and intriguing places I’ve visited in Europe.

Bratislava Castle

The most prominent, dominating structure in all of Bratislava has to be its mighty castle, which sits on a hill above the Danube River overlooking the city. With a history as complex and interesting as the city itself, it was originally built for the Kingdom of Hungary in the Middle Ages, back when it was called Pressburg (Bratislava did not gain its current name until 1919.) The castle evolved and grew over time before it was destroyed by Napoleon’s troops in a siege from 1809 to 1811 during the Napoleonic Wars. It sat in ruins until 1953, when the Slovakian government decided to undertake a complete restoration of the castle in the Renaissance style.

From the efforts of the Slovakian government and other enterprises, the Bratislava Castle was completely rebuilt and largely restored (some individual rooms and chambers are still in the process of being renovated.) It resembles a large, white, rectangular box with four corner towers, which is quite an odd look compared to other castles in Europe but at least it’s unique! Because the castle burned down, the interior is somewhat sparse in decoration, almost like a minimalist doll-house.

**View of Bratislava Castle from towers. Danube River to the right.**

Most SNP (UFO Bridge)

**Most SNP Bridge, one of the most famous Communist inventions in Slovakia.**

Linking central Bratislava with other sections of the city over the Danube river, the Most SNP (“Bridge of the Slovak National Uprising”) is one of the city’s most quirky architectural creations and perhaps the most famous in the Communist style. Connected to the pylon cables at the top of the bridge is an observation deck shaped like a flying saucer, or UFO, which led many tourists to call it the UFO bridge. There are walkways below the bridge that allow you to cross and visit the observation deck, which has wonderful views of the city.

**View of Bratislava from the top of the observation deck on the UFO bridge.**

St. Martin’s Cathedral

Easily seen from both Bratislava Castle and the UFO Bridge, St. Martin’s Cathedral is a great place to start an Old Town walking tour because it sits on the western edge of the historical center. One of the most beautiful buildings in the city, the interior is similar to many other European cathedrals and served as the coronation church of the Kingdom of Hungary from 1563 to 1830.

Old Town Sights

The historical quarter of Bratislava contains its most regal and classical sights, reminiscent of the splendor of other Habsburg-influenced cities like Vienna and Prague. An added bonus is that Bratislava’s oldest quarter is compact, easily walkable, and relaxing. You will not feel rushed to see everything because all of the famous sights are located right next to each other.

**A great reward waits for you after you climb the steps of the tower in the Old Town Hall!**

At one of the entrances to the Old Town is Michael’s Gate, the only preserved gate of the previously walled city. Constructed in the Baroque style, the tower displays an elegant, rotund copper roof. On the very top, there is a statue of the archangel Michael (the most important religious figure of the city) slaying a dragon. A short walk down the street from Michael’s Gate leads you to the Old Town Hall. Inside is the Bratislava City Museum and a climb up the stairs to the top of the tower gives you some truly marvelous views of the historical center of the city and the castle.

**Umbrella Street at the Nedbalka Gallery.**

Instagrammers will most certainly gush over the Umbrella Street, located right next to the Nedbalka Gallery, which houses modern Slovak art from the 20th century. Not a historical sight in any sense of the word, but at least it’s a nice place to walk through! Palace hunters should look no further than the Primate’s Palace. Built in the 18th century, the Primate’s Palace is the seat of the Mayor of Bratislava and holds famous English tapestries.

**Courtyard near the Primate’s Palace.**

The Blue Church

Officially known as the Church of St. Elizabeth of Hungary, the Blue Church is the more widely used term for obvious reasons. Built in the Art Nouveau style, the Blue Church is painted in a remarkable blue hue that really pops in a neighborhood marked by neutral colors. The ceramic detail on the front of the church is worth another photo!

Bratislavan Communist Architecture

**Slovak Radio Building, one of the most recognizable Communist architectural pieces in the city.**

Bratislava is made even more unique by the architecture and monuments left over from the Communist government that took power after the 1948 Czechoslovak coup d’état. A tragic time for both the city and the country, the totalitarian regime repressed its citizens and demolished many historical sights to make room for new buildings that would represent the “utilitarian” nature of Communism. Many of these buildings clearly stick out, with odd, futuristic styles that clash with the more traditional buildings in Bratislava.

**Slovakian demonstrators during the Velvet Revolution in 1989, leading to the transition from one-party state to democracy.**

The Communist regime fell in 1989 in an event called the Velvet Revolution, when the one-party state relinquished power after a massive series of protests and demonstrations led by the Czech and Slovak peoples (at this time Czechoslovakia was one country.) It was non-violent and led to Slovakia’s successful transition to a multi-party democracy. However, many buildings constructed in the Communist era were left behind as a reminder of the historical period.

**Petrzalka Apartment Complexes. Architecture from Soviet Socialism.**

One of the most remarkable is the Slavín Memorial, which sits on a large hill overlooking the city. Slavín is a war memorial which commemorates the liberation of Bratislava from Nazi rule by the Red Army in April of 1945. A gigantic obelisk stands at 39 meters (128 feet) and is topped by a victorious Soviet soldier. Like many of the Communist relics, this one is controversial and carries mixed feelings for Slovakians.

Other Communist architectural works in the city include the Slovak Radio Building, an inverted pyramid made of iron, and the Petrzalka, a prefabricated apartment housing complex with massive, block-shaped buildings lining the streets. Easily missed is the Communist mural in the Bratislava Train Station, which displays a large panel of propaganda art meant to glorify Soviet communism (you can see Sputnik and “harmonious” workers carrying the red flag.) The message of this panel really screams “Workers of the world, unite!”

**Communist Mural in the Bratislava Train Station.**

Devín Castle

Located just 10km west of the city center of Bratislava, Devín Castle is a great place for a little side trip from the city to see an old ruined castle and beautiful scenery. Sitting at the confluence of the Moravia and Danube rivers, (the actual border with Austria) Devín Castle once was a mighty fortification before it was bombarded and destroyed by Napoleon. In the Communist era, it served as the physical border of the Iron Curtain, with barbed wire strung below the castle to prevent Slovaks from escaping into Austria. I was lucky to make some great friends in Bratislava and they took me here for a day trip.

Food, Drink, and Nightlife in Bratislava

Similar to other localities in Central Europe, Slovakian cuisine is hearty, delicious, and always served with a pint of great beer! One of the local specialties to try in Bratislava is called bryndzové halusky, which translated from Slovakian means potato dumplings with bryndza (sheep) cheese and shredded bacon. Don’t forget to try a shot of the local spirit, borovicka.

There are two excellent restaurants to try the authentic Slovakian cuisine of Bratislava. One is called Bratislava Flag Ship Restaurant (http://www.bratislavskarestauracia.sk/en/) and the other, my personal favorite, is Mestiansky Pivovar (http://www.mestianskypivovar.sk). This restaurant is a huge brewpub that feels very cozy and similar to what you would find in Germany, in case you want a comparison.

If you’re looking for good nightlife options, the city center of Bratislava has lots of clubs and bars worth checking out. Here is a list provided by the Bratislava tourism website. (https://www.visitbratislava.com/top-10-nightlife?)

**Enjoying some pints and the local distilled spirit “borovicka” with my friend Gabriel.**

Bratislava, Slovakia