Copenhagen, Denmark

 
Frederick’s Church, popularly known as the Marble Church, near Amalienborg Castle.

Frederick’s Church, popularly known as the Marble Church, near Amalienborg Castle.

Colorful and Chic

Copenhagen is Denmark’s funky capital city; it’s a place that fuses the classical with the avant-garde, plus a splash of Scandinavian coziness. There are few places in Europe that feel quite like Copenhagen. Anyone interested in an introduction to Scandinavia should put this city at the top of their list. Take a lovely bike ride along the canals, stroll the beautiful Nyhavn harbor, or enjoy the world-class museums and palaces the city has to offer. The happiest country on Earth will gladly welcome you and make you feel right at home.

Best times to visit: Early summer and Fall (May to June and September). December is also a great time to participate in the Christmas season!

Budget: $$$$ (Expensive, but not as expensive as the other Scandinavian countries.)

English Level: Fantastic. Danes speak English better than some Americans.

Colorful houses in a residential neighborhood in Copenhagen. They love their bikes!

Colorful houses in a residential neighborhood in Copenhagen. They love their bikes!

Copenhagen Sites and Culture

Copenhagen has plenty of activities, but walking around and exploring the quirky neighborhoods is immensely satisfying and will give travelers an idea of the Danish way of life. Sitting at a cafe and looking at the buildings or watching the people who pass by is always such a rewarding experience!

The flag of Denmark. The red background with an elongated white cross is a symbol used throughout Scandinavia and reflects the country’s strong maritime history. We learned that the Danish flag is the oldest continuously used national flag, with its…

The flag of Denmark. The red background with an elongated white cross is a symbol used throughout Scandinavia and reflects the country’s strong maritime history. We learned that the Danish flag is the oldest continuously used national flag, with its introduction in 1219 (making this the 800th year of its use!)

Danish culture is perhaps not something that many people can describe well. Denmark is considered one of the happiest countries in the world, with high life expectancy and standard of living, and this can certainly be linked to Danish cultural traditions. One of the contributing factors to this phenomenon lies in the Danish cultural practice of hygge (pronounced “hoo-ga”.) Hygge means coziness or contentment with the simple pleasures of life. If you have found joy in reading a book on a rainy day, or drinking a beer with friends on a rooftop patio enjoying the atmosphere, you have experienced hygge! The Danish are obsessed with this phenomenon, and strive to bring hygge into all aspects of their life.

If you are interested in learning more about the Danish phenomenon called hygge, there is a great book by Meik Wiking that explains Denmark’s famous cultural practice and ways to incorporate hygge into your life. The Little Book of Hygge: The Danish Way to Live Well.

image_138c9b71-139a-455e-bd0e-538b783aba74.jpg

Tivoli Gardens

Opened in 1843, Tivoli Gardens is the world’s second oldest amusement park and easily within walking distance of the center of Copenhagen. Visiting at night is a special treat for those who want to be wowed by beautiful lights and romantic representations of Far-Eastern architecture. There are several roller coasters you can ride and a sky flier that sends you swinging high through the sky. Even if you are not a fan of amusement park rides, Tivoli is fun to walk through. It will transport you to another world and take you a step back in time.

Entrance to Tivoli Gardens, bathed in a warm orange glow at night.

Entrance to Tivoli Gardens, bathed in a warm orange glow at night.

An Ottoman style palace within Tivoli Gardens.

An Ottoman style palace within Tivoli Gardens.

Nyhavn

Nyhavn, the famous harbor of Copenhagen. This is a great place to grab a drink or listen to jazz music. In the subsequent images you can see how quickly the weather changes in Denmark. Given its proximity to the Gulf Stream and the Baltic and North …

Nyhavn, the famous harbor of Copenhagen. This is a great place to grab a drink or listen to jazz music. In the subsequent images you can see how quickly the weather changes in Denmark. Given its proximity to the Gulf Stream and the Baltic and North seas, there are moments of intense sunshine and others of cloudy skies.

Nyhavn Harbor is the iconic spot in Copenhagen that everyone is familiar with if they have seen a travel brochure. And why wouldn’t it be? The canal is lined with beautifully colored, neatly arranged houses that capture the eye like few places can. Once an important shipping route for boats entering the city, Nyhavn is now a picturesque boulevard lined with cozy cafés, jazz bars, and restaurants where tourists and locals can relax and enjoy great music after a long day. At the top of the canal, you can take a boat tour which passes all the way down Nyhavn and into the bay of Copenhagen. Danish children’s book author Hans Christian Andersen lived in apartment no. 20, and it was in this apartment that he wrote his famous children’s story The Princess and the Pea.

The Little Mermaid Statue

 
The Little Mermaid statue. Small and unimposing, Ariel sits upon a rock as she transforms from mermaid to human girl.

The Little Mermaid statue. Small and unimposing, Ariel sits upon a rock as she transforms from mermaid to human girl.

 

Perhaps Hans Christian Andersen’s most famous story is the one many of us are familiar with: The Little Mermaid. There is a small bronze statue of Ariel turning into a human along the banks of the sea in the northern part of the city. Neither imposing nor grand in size, this little statue might seem like a bit of a disappointment to those expecting a massive depiction of the mermaid. Nevertheless, it is worth a visit just to experience the beautiful walk along the bay. If you scroll down to the section about Frederiksborg Castle, you will see a photograph displayed there of Danish sailors posing in front of the statue in celebration of Denmark’s liberation from Nazi Germany.

Christiansborg Palace

The spectacular entranceway to Christiansborg Palace. Marble arches on either side of the bridge display gold crowns, symbolizing the monarchy. In the center, a copper steeple houses the Danish government.

The spectacular entranceway to Christiansborg Palace. Marble arches on either side of the bridge display gold crowns, symbolizing the monarchy. In the center, a copper steeple houses the Danish government.

The Great Hall of Christiansborg Palace.

The Great Hall of Christiansborg Palace.

Christiansborg Palace sits in central Copenhagen and houses the three supreme political powers of the country; executive, legislative, and judicial. Denmark is a constitutional monarchy, meaning it has a king or queen with ceremonial powers and a representative democracy ruled by Parliament. Christiansborg Palace is the official seat of the Danish monarchy, whose ruler is Queen Margrethe II (ruling since 1972, she is very popular at home and abroad.) It is also the home of the Danish parliament, called the Folketing, and the Danish Supreme Court.

The current palace that sits here was constructed in 1928 in the Baroque style, but various other castles and palaces holding the Danish government have been built and torn down on the site since 1167. Unlike other palaces that exude more pomp or flair, the Christiansborg Palace greets the visitor with an air of authority and justice, reflected in the symmetry of the marble arches, adorned with beautiful golden crowns, that complement the central steeple. The palace can be visited by tourists, and consists of five separate exhibitions. These include the Royal Reception Rooms, the Palace Chapel, the Royal Kitchen, the Royal Stables, and the ruins of the castle. I’m a sucker for palaces, so this was a must visit for me, but I encourage others to visit one of the less crowded and more peaceful palaces in Europe.

Strøget

Traditional buildings in Strøget shopping district.

Traditional buildings in Strøget shopping district.

Calling all shopaholics! Strøget is Copenhagen’s longest pedestrian street, with a variety of different stores ranging from easy on the budget to expensive, fancy boutiques. Like most shopping streets in Europe, there are going to be some corny tourist traps, but some of the stores are worth visiting. One of these stores is Royal Copenhagen, a famous porcelain shop that sells beautiful houseware and other decorative items. It is one of Denmark’s oldest businesses, serving the kings and queens of Denmark since 1775.

Freetown Christiania

Mural art in Freetown Christiania.

Mural art in Freetown Christiania.

One of the most interesting neighborhoods in all of Europe is located right here in Copenhagen, called Freetown Christiania. This neighborhood located within the city is an autonomous commune with about 1,000 residents. The area has fantastic murals, locals (hippies) who give tours of the area, and lots of paths for bikers who want to enjoy the nice scenery.

Street art in Freetown Christiania. The red flag with yellow dots is the unofficial flag of the autonomous community. The two focal points, a fist smashing a heroin needle and a cannabis leaf, illustrate the nuances of drug culture within the neighb…

Street art in Freetown Christiania. The red flag with yellow dots is the unofficial flag of the autonomous community. The two focal points, a fist smashing a heroin needle and a cannabis leaf, illustrate the nuances of drug culture within the neighborhood and the complex relationship the community has with the police.

Christiania has also garner a lot of infamy for the popularity of the marijuana trade; local residents often push weed on the streets, which is still illegal in Denmark. For this reason, it’s important NOT to take photographs around the neighborhood unless you have permission from a local Christianite (which I did for these murals.) The area is self-governing and they don’t want people to get prosecuted for the activities that occur inside the commune. Regardless of your views on drugs, Christiania is worth exploring to see a different way of life within society.

Rosenborg Castle

Central facade of Rosenborg Castle, as seen from the King’s Garden in a rare moment of sunshine on the trip.

Central facade of Rosenborg Castle, as seen from the King’s Garden in a rare moment of sunshine on the trip.

Rosenborg Castle is a Renaissance style castle set in the beautiful King’s Garden in the heart of the city. The structure of the castle is a bit odd-looking from the photo; you’re probably thinking “wow, that looks more like a large house than a castle,” but it is deceptively roomy and impressive on the inside. Finding the castle is also a little bit of an adventure because it is smack in the middle of a public park. Rosenborg Castle was built by Danish King Christian IV in the 17th century, and it houses beautiful treasures from the Danish royal family, such as the Crown Jewels, the Coronation Thrones, and other royal artifacts. Very similar to the function of the Tower of London for the English monarchy, Rosenborg Castle takes you on a journey through the history of the Danish monarchy.

One of my favorite rooms from Rosenborg Castle, with beautiful blue and green tapestries adorning the walls. The decorations suggest the impact of artistic influences from other places, like the Dutch Republic and East Asia.

One of my favorite rooms from Rosenborg Castle, with beautiful blue and green tapestries adorning the walls. The decorations suggest the impact of artistic influences from other places, like the Dutch Republic and East Asia.

Day Trips from Copenhagen

While Copenhagen is enough for a trip, the island of Zealand (which Copenhagen sits on) has some fantastic castles and museums worth exploring if you have the time. Thanks to Denmark’s wonderful train and bus system, reaching these destinations is painless and worth the extra effort.

Fredericksborg Castle in Hillerød, DK

Frederiksborg Castle entrance. The magnificent courtyard in front of the castle is immediately behind Neptune’s Fountain, a masterful work of sculpture.

Frederiksborg Castle entrance. The magnificent courtyard in front of the castle is immediately behind Neptune’s Fountain, a masterful work of sculpture.

The Chapel of Frederiksborg Castle.

The Chapel of Frederiksborg Castle.

Baroque Gardens of Frederiksborg Castle.

Baroque Gardens of Frederiksborg Castle.

Frederiksborg Castle was the official royal residence of King Christian IV (yes, the same king who built Rosenborg Castle.) It was built by his father, Frederick II, as a summer residence for his family. Christian IV was born there and had it rebuilt in the Renaissance style after his father’s death. The castle is situated in the middle of a gigantic lake, with beautiful Baroque style gardens attached to one of the islets behind it.

Depiction of the Castle Fire of 1859, painted by Ferdinand Richardt. The fire permanently damaged many rooms of the castle.

Depiction of the Castle Fire of 1859, painted by Ferdinand Richardt. The fire permanently damaged many rooms of the castle.

The castle was partially destroyed in a large fire in 1859, but thanks to generous public donations the castle was reopened as the Danish Museum of National History, and now holds a fantastic collection of Danish paintings that chronicle different aspects of Danish life throughout the centuries (pictured below.) In addition to the art collections on the upper floors, visitors can still peruse the undamaged state rooms, containing a mixture of elaborate and plainly decorated styles.

HOW TO GET THERE:

Reaching Frederiksborg Castle from Copenhagen is quite simple. At the Copenhagen Central Station, take the S-train (S-Tog) line A to Hillerød station (around 40 minutes). It is a pleasant 15-minute walk from the station to the castle. Alternatively, use bus 301 (direction Ullerød) or bus 302 (direction Sophienlund) to bus stop Frederiksborg Slot. The bus fare is usually included in the train ticket.

Roskilde

Roskilde is a small town to the west of Copenhagen that is famous for its Viking Museum (we went at my father’s insistence.) The Viking Ship Museum is a pleasant 15 minute walk from the Roskilde Train Station through the city to the port. Anyone with interest in ships or the Vikings should try to visit this museum because it holds five recently excavated Viking ships that are over 1,000 years old! In the summer months, you can take a boat ride on a reconstructed Viking ship (pretty cool if you ask me.)

How to get there: There are direct trains every 30 minutes from Copenhagen central station to Roskilde. The journey takes about 30 minutes.

Reconstructed Viking ship on the water near the Viking Ship Museum.

Reconstructed Viking ship on the water near the Viking Ship Museum.

Kronborg Castle in Helsingør, DK

Kronborg Castle in Helsingør, Denmark. The site of Shakespeare’s famous tragedy Hamlet.

Kronborg Castle in Helsingør, Denmark. The site of Shakespeare’s famous tragedy Hamlet.

Widely considered the most famous castle in all of Denmark, Kronborg Castle sits on the Elsinore sound just across the bay from Sweden. The inspiration for Shakespeare’s famous tragedy Hamlet, this castle looks more like a massive fortification overlooking the sea to protect the royal family from invaders.

You’re probably wondering “Do they do reenactments of Hamlet here?” And the answer is yes, in the summertime actors will stage the play in the central courtyard of the castle.

How to get there: Take a train from Copenhagen central to Helsingør, about 45 minutes.

Restaurants in Copenhagen

Admiralgade 26

Admiralgade 26 is a fantastic place to grab dinner if you’re looking for upscale Danish food in a beautiful, modern interior setting. Serving seasonal foods from regions around Europe, Admiralgade 26 did not disappoint!

Address: Admiralgade 26, 1066 København

Phone: +45 33 33 79 73

http://www.admiralgade26.dk

 
Kitchen at Admiralgade 26.

Kitchen at Admiralgade 26.

 

Restaurant Schønnemann

Schønnemann is a MUST VISIT for anyone looking to experience the very best in authentic Danish cuisine. It is only open for lunch and specializes in the Danish smørrebrød, a type of open faced sandwich that consists of rye bread (rugbrød) topped with traditional cold cuts of meat or fish. The restaurant has the feel of a historical tavern, as you are greeted by hundreds of bottles of different types of liquor when you enter. Some of the most popular sandwiches have pickled herring, cod, and other types of meat.

You have quite the selection of alcoholic beverages at Schønnemann!

You have quite the selection of alcoholic beverages at Schønnemann!

 
A smørrebrød with pickled herring, onions, and egg. I am always open to trying new, local foods whenever I travel. Even if I don’t like it, locals are appreciative and happy when visitors make attempts to embrace their local cuisine. It might not ha…

A smørrebrød with pickled herring, onions, and egg. I am always open to trying new, local foods whenever I travel. Even if I don’t like it, locals are appreciative and happy when visitors make attempts to embrace their local cuisine. It might not have looked very appetizing to me, but it was delicious! Don’t judge a book by its cover!

 


Address: Hauser Pl. 16, 1127 København

Phone: +45 33 12 07 85

https://www.restaurantschonnemann.dk/en/menu/

The Coffee Collective

The modern feeling Coffee Collective shop.

The modern feeling Coffee Collective shop.

I discovered this cool Danish coffee chain by accident… what a great find! The coffee shop has a nice airy, open feel and serves great coffee and other snacks.

Address: Vendersgade 6D, 1363 København

Phone: +45 60 15 15 25

https://coffeecollective.dk

Mad & Kaffe

 
Just a few of the items available on the menu here at Mad & Kaffe!

Just a few of the items available on the menu here at Mad & Kaffe!

 

Fulfill your breakfast kick at this cute café, which has a three locations around the city. They prepare everything with the freshest ingredients, and the items on the menu are tailored to both meat eaters and vegetarians.

Address: Sønder Blvd. 68, 1720 København

Phone: +45 31 35 08 80

https://madogkaffe.dk/restaurants-eng/frederiksberg-eng/#



 
John Dannehl2 Comments