Ljubljana, Slovenia

 
Hiking Trail near Vintgar Gorge in the Julian Alps, a few hours outside Ljubljana.

Hiking Trail near Vintgar Gorge in the Julian Alps, a few hours outside Ljubljana.

Europe’s Secret Paradise

Many people have never heard of Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia (maybe they’ve never heard of Slovenia either!) A small, unimposing European country, Slovenia sits snuggled between Italy and Croatia. Like nearby Slovakia, the country is often overlooked because of the large shadow cast over it by its Italian and Croatian neighbors. It’s a bit hard to reach; with only one reasonably sized airport. Given all of this, most simply skip the trip unless they go on a tour or rent a car. What a mistake! Ljubljana is one of the most charming cities in Europe, with an elegant ambience seen in its buildings and its people. The perfect place to spend a weekend, plus a few extra days to explore the Slovenian Alps, Ljubljana is one destination you should be putting at the top of your list.

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Official Languages: Slovene, Hungarian, and Italian.

Best time to visit: Year-round, but late May-September offers the best weather for outdoor-based adventures in the nearby Alps.

Budget: $$ (Slovenia is on the cheaper side. One mid-range traveller can expect to pay about 75-100 dollars per day for lodging, food, and sights combined.)

English Level: Excellent. The Slovenian people speak very good English and you should have no problems.

Ljubljana Sights and Culture

The Ljubljanica River and Ljubljana Castle, near the city center. You would be hard pressed to find a greener city than this one!

The Ljubljanica River and Ljubljana Castle, near the city center. You would be hard pressed to find a greener city than this one!

Slovenian culture is as rich and diverse as the landscapes spread across the country. Sitting at the crossroads of Italy, Austria, Hungary, and the Balkans, Slovenia synthesizes these European influences into a unique style that can be seen in its architecture and its cuisine. Ljubljana is the perfect place to experience this mixture of cultures, with fine museums, world-class restaurants, and one of the greenest urban centers in all of Europe. And while Ljubljana is a great place for a weekend destination, no trip to Slovenia is complete without venturing out of the city to witness its spectacular natural treasures. From the Julian Alps to the Adriatic coastline, Slovenia has a wild and beautiful side that is easily accessible from the capital.

Preseren Square (Presernov trg)

View of Presernov Square. The pink building in the background is the Franciscan Church of the Annunciation.

View of Presernov Square. The pink building in the background is the Franciscan Church of the Annunciation.

The gateway to Ljubljana’s Old Town, the Preseren Square is a great place to start a tour because it sits in the heart of the city. Most of the important sights in Ljubljana are within a 10 minute walking radius of this square, so it’s a great place to find your bearings. If you just need a break, you could simply enjoy the street musicians playing their accordions. On the righthand side of the square you will find a statue of the Romantic Slovenian poet France Preseren, for whom the square is named. The Slovenes are proud that their central square is adorned with a literary figure, rather than a military or political figure, which seems to be the norm in many European cities. Also of interest is the Triple Bridge, a neat architectural structure that connects the square to the rest of the city. Built by Slovenia’s most famous architect Joze Plecnik, the Triple Bridge is just one of Plecnik’s architectural wonders to be discovered in Ljubljana.

Preseren Square, with the Triple Bridge.

Preseren Square, with the Triple Bridge.

Central Market

Just a stone’s throw away from Preseren Square, the Central Market is a large, open air market selling Slovenian fruits and vegetables, as well as food kiosks to buy snacks from local chefs. I was blown away by how fantastic the fruits looked, (I visited in late May) and I had to try a little container of the blueberries and strawberries. They tasted like they were just pulled out of the bushes. Unbelievably fresh and delicious. Let your eyes wander across a stunning display of fresh foods that are hard to find elsewhere.

Some of the fruits offered at the Central Market. Probably the most delicious fruit I’ve ever eaten.

Some of the fruits offered at the Central Market. Probably the most delicious fruit I’ve ever eaten.

Just near the Central Market, you can find the Dragon Bridge, which connects the market with a long corridor of cafes and restaurants that are the perfect place to grab a coffee and people watch. I noticed that Slovenian people are very interesting to look at. They seem to have great style, and they aren’t afraid to flaunt it. There’s also quite a laidback atmosphere around the town; people don’t seem to be in a hurry. If you need to rest and recharge your batteries, one of the cafes near the market is your best bet!

Ljubljana Castle

View at sunset from the top turret of Ljubljana Castle.

View at sunset from the top turret of Ljubljana Castle.

As far as European castles go, Ljubljana Castle is pretty underwhelming (there is a lot of competition to be fair!) Built over 900 years ago, the castle sits on a hill above the city like many others. While it doesn’t bring a whole lot to the table, you should visit the castle on your trip to Ljubljana mainly because it offers the best panorama of the city. The watchtower at the top of the castle offers some pretty spectacular 360 degree views, with mountains on almost all sides.

Tivoli Park

The Tivoli Mansion in Tivoli Park.

The Tivoli Mansion in Tivoli Park.

The largest park in Ljubljana, Tivoli Park is a great place to take a walk or ride a bike near the Old Town to admire the large expanses of forest and green space that occupy the center of the city. There are plenty of promenades to stroll down, fountains and statues to admire, and winding pathways that take you around beautiful flower beds. The Tivoli Mansion is the focal point of the park, providing you with a way to orient yourself should you get lost!

Sts. Cyril and Methodius Church, on the edge of Tivoli Park.

Sts. Cyril and Methodius Church, on the edge of Tivoli Park.

On the edge of Tivoli Park, you can find a very interesting Orthodox church called Sts. Cyril and Methodius Church. It was built to serve the Serbian community of Slovenia. The five domes adorned with golden crosses on their tops are unmistakeable!

Outside Ljubljana

Lake Bled, Slovenia

Lake Bled. The Assumption of Mary Church, Bled Castle, and the Slovenian Alps can all be seen in the background.

Lake Bled. The Assumption of Mary Church, Bled Castle, and the Slovenian Alps can all be seen in the background.

Lake Bled is one of the few sights in Europe that truly lives up to its picture perfect reputation in real life. An alpine lake carved out by the glaciers of the Slovenian Alps, Lake Bled is the golden egg laid by the Slovenian goose. A trip to Lake Bled promises the best of Slovenia’s beauty, and a place of tranquility for hiking and reflection. I am no painter, but I was tempted to sketch the scene laid before my eyes. In the middle of the lake you will find a small, forested island, where the Assumption of Mary Church quietly stands. In Slovenian legend, the church is said to possess mystical properties, and it will grant one wish to step onto the island. The only way to reach it is to take a traditional wooden boat, called a pletna, from the lake shore to the island. Once there, you walk up the steps and ring the church bell. The chiming rings across the lake and supposedly grants one wish you hold in your heart.

Typical wooden rowboats which take you to the central island, known as Pletnas.

Typical wooden rowboats which take you to the central island, known as Pletnas.

Lake Bled is not lacking in breathtaking views of its natural environment, but one of the best places to appreciate the setting is from Bled Castle. The 12th century castle is itself a modest building, unsurprisingly dwarfed by its mighty surroundings. It does have a wine cellar with an exhibit teaching you how wine bottles are sealed, so there are a few interesting activities to check out.

Lake Bled as seen from Bled Castle.

Lake Bled as seen from Bled Castle.

A trip to Lake Bled is not complete without a visit to the Park Hotel, where you can try Slovenia’s national dessert, the cream cake. A delicate puff pastry topped with layers of vanilla cream and custard, the Bled Cream Cake is a protected heritage item in Slovenia, meaning you can only find the real thing in Lake Bled. It was brought to the country from the Austro-Hungarian Empire in the 18th century, and has remained a staple ever since. The Park Hotel is home to Slovenia’s first cream cake, and many of the patisseries in Bled say that you should sample the original.

Lake Bled Cream Cake, from the Park Hotel.

Lake Bled Cream Cake, from the Park Hotel.

 
John Dannehl1 Comment